tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80177337099369721412024-03-12T20:45:51.921-04:00The Haircolor ExpertHaircolor Education,Haircolor Books,Haircolor Newsletter, Haircolor Blog, haircolor Videos,Hair color Advice, Haircolor correction, Blondes, Brunettes, RedheadsDavid Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-62893232613628145232015-03-22T12:30:00.000-04:002015-03-22T12:22:16.587-04:00Secrets of Making a Blonde a Brunette<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHawEBGQtqtaABzRPH3Mf1a_fa8f5MM1isywGTFlY65XMO3SUD3yxyrf1SBiR1wO8D9z1PwTenhoAroX-Gryr6HQnQlwfGoRROEBCgx4_TkogD2CaasxIDnsBdrDSwbjbInnTWeIdJxB0z/s1600-h/TB-Blonde+to+Dark+hair+swath.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHawEBGQtqtaABzRPH3Mf1a_fa8f5MM1isywGTFlY65XMO3SUD3yxyrf1SBiR1wO8D9z1PwTenhoAroX-Gryr6HQnQlwfGoRROEBCgx4_TkogD2CaasxIDnsBdrDSwbjbInnTWeIdJxB0z/s320/TB-Blonde+to+Dark+hair+swath.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296012389605373330" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 73px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 257px;" /></a>
Now this can be very tricky, but, if you read this lesson carefully, you will not have any problems and create a truly beautiful brunette when you’re done.
By the way, this procedure is not only used for converting a double process blonde into a brunette. You should also use this procedure any time you are converting any highly porous head of hair to a darker, warmer (brown or red) color.
The key factor isn’t the method of how the hair becomes lighter, it is the absence of warmth (gold and red) in the hair and the condition of the hair that will be the determining factors for using this method or not.
NOTE: This procedure is commonly known as a tint-back and will also be discussed in other sections of this course.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvKwb2ssOgaT_1jGTqZAe9JCy7RTYLPnvM3kzdqaZqbKeINCDm4Sj25QmMIIcPUYzky2W6B1a2PkCwCsndzPUGy6KbDkGP3vmW3Acqw8y_Dh4ZNR9bdhlMyi97hf4W3e7ZB5Smw1FLKJCj/s1600-h/TB-Blonde+girl++Dark+Girl.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvKwb2ssOgaT_1jGTqZAe9JCy7RTYLPnvM3kzdqaZqbKeINCDm4Sj25QmMIIcPUYzky2W6B1a2PkCwCsndzPUGy6KbDkGP3vmW3Acqw8y_Dh4ZNR9bdhlMyi97hf4W3e7ZB5Smw1FLKJCj/s320/TB-Blonde+girl++Dark+Girl.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296013428989117378" style="cursor: pointer; height: 153px; width: 212px;" /></a>
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<span style="font-size: 130%; font-weight: bold;">Tint Backs….</span>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">The Overall Concept:</span> If you remember from your beauty school days, as you lighten out hair, it goes through what is called the “Stages of Lift”. It goes something like this…
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Brown→Reddish Brown→Red→Orange→ Gold→Yellow→Pale Yellow
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9FBF1mripiatraMAMeZE3Kq3EXm_YhkhKizz9NnbDftPUO-DnX7AlmkowR1Jq_qo-3VfPoUCyDxNg0WHFFK7NZmdgig4MW2oLcDdn_6TOjYv4dfAzeI1n-ghZqON4AJEa_JD4YXXxhcq/s1600-h/TB-Brown+to+blonde+scale.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9FBF1mripiatraMAMeZE3Kq3EXm_YhkhKizz9NnbDftPUO-DnX7AlmkowR1Jq_qo-3VfPoUCyDxNg0WHFFK7NZmdgig4MW2oLcDdn_6TOjYv4dfAzeI1n-ghZqON4AJEa_JD4YXXxhcq/s320/TB-Brown+to+blonde+scale.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296015028783565634" style="cursor: pointer; height: 78px; width: 320px;" /></a></div>
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Brown to Blonde
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So if we want to make a brunette out of pale yellow hair, we would need to replace the colors which were lightened out in the same order as they were depleted. In order to make the job a lot easier, we can use an orange (yellow & red pre-mixed) demi-color instead of applying a gold then red color.
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Blonde to Brown
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBj_0Kc1Oc12EaZoOihPa0jmmj09JR80OQLVuVL-YqiQlq7PheVn87a1vqgHkoaAS0Rod3lwE5kiu8QgTPWrbHc6tyFzUav3X-eV7T-J4TejoQBok9M1oMRjaaYQ3nkQ6cO9pvMZNWCBb5/s1600-h/TB-Blonde+to+Brown+Scale.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBj_0Kc1Oc12EaZoOihPa0jmmj09JR80OQLVuVL-YqiQlq7PheVn87a1vqgHkoaAS0Rod3lwE5kiu8QgTPWrbHc6tyFzUav3X-eV7T-J4TejoQBok9M1oMRjaaYQ3nkQ6cO9pvMZNWCBb5/s320/TB-Blonde+to+Brown+Scale.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296013736515939874" style="cursor: pointer; height: 79px; width: 320px;" /></a>
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Pale Yellow→Yellow→Gold→Orange→Red→Reddish Brown→Brown
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You never want to use any ash tones in this procedure. Even if you want your finished color to look ashy, you must still use a gold or neutral base color as your final shade. Never use a green, blue, or violet shade tint.
Tint backs are when you are taking a client that has been getting his/her hair lightened out (as in a double process blonde or a very light single process blonde with a high degree of porosity), back to his/her natural color or to any darker color than he/she presently is.
In this case, we will use the exposed contributing pigment chart from the beginning of this book to see what colors need to be put back into the hair before you can achieve a natural looking finished result. (This technique is sometimes called “Color Packing” or replacing the “Building Blocks of Color”).
<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">For example:</span></span>
The client has been double processed for some time now and wishes to go back to his/her natural color, which was a “level 4,light brown”.
Remember, you cannot just select a light brown tint, put it on this bleached out hair and expect to get a good color. There isn’t a sufficient color base left in the hair to support the light brown color. The hair will grab the base of the tint and come out looking very drab, muddy or green. You must first put the missing contributing pigment back into the hair before applying the final desired shade.
You can see by looking at the chart on the next page, that, in order to make a “level 4, light brown”, the missing contributing pigment must be put back into the hair. In this case, it is “red-orange”.
Back in the days of “Color Fillers”, we first put in the yellow (gold) filler and then put in the red filler in order to make orange. This is why it was called “The Building Blocks of Color”.
However, today, all you have to do is to select a demi-color shade that is “light orange,” or something in the orange category, to give you the base you need. (Tahitian Red Blonde works great).
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy4GxTdvS8cEFyd0yT9jUZiknsUPPxxRD333tlS9Bj-tkIsd2f0dIEkUWqjmTUOlsLEOzDUVPLn1XqNVTbte5tKPFuxZV_9SUJWcH5XfmMAj3hU0iogBkqtnLMIBY8r3Ig4JSMptr8mK1a/s1600-h/TB-Carol+Blonde+to+Brown.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy4GxTdvS8cEFyd0yT9jUZiknsUPPxxRD333tlS9Bj-tkIsd2f0dIEkUWqjmTUOlsLEOzDUVPLn1XqNVTbte5tKPFuxZV_9SUJWcH5XfmMAj3hU0iogBkqtnLMIBY8r3Ig4JSMptr8mK1a/s320/TB-Carol+Blonde+to+Brown.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296013741805903522" style="cursor: pointer; height: 134px; width: 275px;" /></a>
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<span style="font-size: 130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Steps to a Tint Back</span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3Up2hxBuOor5-UlegpksSAwrbdH2ftVbenKihJke-1lXQ3THm1mDUTb7-Yo1q4KkHOxzBlanrAfPWF4fdAQ_laolX0ZxJ0dC3IglkMIHWsNWv3UdKL1W-phvH_yGdhuVvQxOWwTxdd5I/s1600-h/TB-Steps+to+a+tint+back.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3Up2hxBuOor5-UlegpksSAwrbdH2ftVbenKihJke-1lXQ3THm1mDUTb7-Yo1q4KkHOxzBlanrAfPWF4fdAQ_laolX0ZxJ0dC3IglkMIHWsNWv3UdKL1W-phvH_yGdhuVvQxOWwTxdd5I/s320/TB-Steps+to+a+tint+back.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296013742638553282" style="cursor: pointer; height: 269px; width: 320px;" /></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">WARNING:</span>
It is very important to use a shade that is at least two levels lighter than your final desired color so that the end result won’t look orange.
Apply the light orange demi-color (mixed with the appropriate developer) to the entire head and allow to process for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then use a clean towel and wipe off the demi-color or rinse the demi-color out at the shampoo bowl (do not shampoo, just rinse with water).
Next, mix and apply your final desired shade.
I would suggest that, for your final desired shade, you continue to use a demi-color. Since you are going darker and not needing any lifting action, a demi-color will hold better and keep the hair in better condition.
Also, for your final desired shade, stay away from ash shades. These may still result in drab and muddy looking hair. Instead, stick with the warmer gold or red shades for the best results. If you really want an ash finished look, use a natural / neutral base tint.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzjS_6yadIE6Cvl17MoOXOaMifv66Up0YLgRXMF-9nIRYnaTaGb_1PcFC-0fMaleElBStB-LavbFASOBceKg1SZpI9P3g6blgaB317gdoXnUXNNod7rz-BZAxNYnyYvGICtL-ayF-J4fo-/s1600-h/TB-3+tint+back+girls.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzjS_6yadIE6Cvl17MoOXOaMifv66Up0YLgRXMF-9nIRYnaTaGb_1PcFC-0fMaleElBStB-LavbFASOBceKg1SZpI9P3g6blgaB317gdoXnUXNNod7rz-BZAxNYnyYvGICtL-ayF-J4fo-/s320/TB-3+tint+back+girls.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296013736997446354" style="cursor: pointer; height: 96px; width: 320px;" /></a>
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David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-77948179617491133772011-01-26T08:30:00.000-05:002011-01-26T08:30:33.474-05:00Best and Worst Candidates for Single Process Blonding<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BnPArhrSpzGddkpyBlPiOypt6XIBJb9-I2ZZ5guYsXo6Mh1J1sOkH_Z7SL3E1V3t9-yv62eRXmKEFIcLfh9f8FkHa6peo0EdkBD-5kdaU21Pku0j_dKyQNG7Bi4_X7mLxiHNh-r5BHoy/s1600/1+Blonde.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BnPArhrSpzGddkpyBlPiOypt6XIBJb9-I2ZZ5guYsXo6Mh1J1sOkH_Z7SL3E1V3t9-yv62eRXmKEFIcLfh9f8FkHa6peo0EdkBD-5kdaU21Pku0j_dKyQNG7Bi4_X7mLxiHNh-r5BHoy/s320/1+Blonde.jpg" width="257" /></a></div><br />
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Like all the haircolor that we do, we’ll always have a best and worst candidate for any particular shade and single process blonding is no different. As a matter of fact, this is one category of color where choosing the right candidate is absolutely essential in order to achieve success. And as you will soon see, there are very few really good candidates from which to choose.<br />
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Look at the Exposed Contributing Color Pigment Guide below. You'll see that the colors RED or ORANGE appear as a “contributing color pigment” as you try to lighten any one that is a natural level 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. The colors GOLD and YELLOW appear as the “contributing color pigment” for anyone with a natural level of 7, 8, 9, and 10.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomeqVPX8XbdYeKmOWuyy-BqHQy8Z_0rJqJLFwijYfcD3Flu4yC4jyroqFZg7WYpRwwQhyWo7Bew7U5__91hyhiz4HRHG89TrMYYBQsizD-THRpavuYXYKBDLumChhnpuAFUaefHOkpMz1/s1600/2+Blonde.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomeqVPX8XbdYeKmOWuyy-BqHQy8Z_0rJqJLFwijYfcD3Flu4yC4jyroqFZg7WYpRwwQhyWo7Bew7U5__91hyhiz4HRHG89TrMYYBQsizD-THRpavuYXYKBDLumChhnpuAFUaefHOkpMz1/s320/2+Blonde.jpg" width="250" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This means that if you try to make a single process blonde out of anyone that is a natural level 1-6, you are going to get very warm tones and produce an orange/brassy blonde. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As you can see, these clients are not good candidates for single process blonding. This does not mean, however, that we cannot make them blondes in other ways, such as a double process blonde or a slightly warm single process blonde with highlights woven in to defuse the warm tones. (I teach this in my books, <a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/">Incredible Single Process Blondes and Stunning Double Process Blondes) </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>That leaves us with natural levels 7, 8, 9, 10. </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you think about it, why would anyone with a natural level 9 or 10 want or need to color his/her hair blonde. The only reason that I can think of is if he/she has gray in his/her blonde hair and wants to re-color it blonde. This will actually be darkening, not lightening, the hair. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So that leaves us with only two natural levels to chose from, 7 & 8. Yes, that’s right, believe it or not, out of all the people in the world the only clients, in my opinion, that will become beautiful, successful single process blondes are the ones that are already starting out with a light natural base color such as natural levels 7 & 8. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Having said this, here is the exception to this rule - there are a few level 6 clients that you may be able to make successful single process blondes. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3VWBy_PC4dJ-z1G8XJ4jKU1NzVqLGMFWXectxHpEH6fwQOdfNJgCtj0dH7PmgNcPSTLvi3xG2BBbZA1bV4YgvHjWe52DOBTtGCnTn1C2yzcHRb4dotMuO5BT8pmreOAYtUQIAAAiIKFU/s1600/3+Blonde.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3VWBy_PC4dJ-z1G8XJ4jKU1NzVqLGMFWXectxHpEH6fwQOdfNJgCtj0dH7PmgNcPSTLvi3xG2BBbZA1bV4YgvHjWe52DOBTtGCnTn1C2yzcHRb4dotMuO5BT8pmreOAYtUQIAAAiIKFU/s1600/3+Blonde.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">These are clients that have very light color skin tones and light cool eye color such as light blue, light gray or light green. The light skin tones and light eye color will usually indicate that they have very light Pheomelanin (red-yellow) color pigmentation and, therefore, usually will not pull too much gold as you lighten their hair. Go ahead and give them a try.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Have a Great Week,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">David</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNEoXoEZLwNxFsMbn4WXCXgwZihEgwpgUiPxgAFXHVHsQPbzl1WLZ-EmjtFSQ0ofrPe1_lwnremzbnAjrM157YV-eGOYlUoYWA0EGcCNxj0xEJ4BmR-kK05arKq5YmaVoBOAMzTAOZtarS/s1600/TipJar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNEoXoEZLwNxFsMbn4WXCXgwZihEgwpgUiPxgAFXHVHsQPbzl1WLZ-EmjtFSQ0ofrPe1_lwnremzbnAjrM157YV-eGOYlUoYWA0EGcCNxj0xEJ4BmR-kK05arKq5YmaVoBOAMzTAOZtarS/s1600/TipJar.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Let Your Tips Pay For Your Education. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">E-Z Pay Plan just $27. Mo.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/e-z-pay-plan34.html">Click Here For Info</a></div>David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-5002237993064853812011-01-17T07:41:00.000-05:002011-01-17T07:41:05.954-05:006 Gray Coverage Secret Rules<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9EjAMjIh9Uo4G2aG-vRQ3UW6SapjWapP5rjndTLOsS6ubbGgL_FUTDwm9Grx-D-I8qzviQPgPTPVnOYJOuoAB2FuSs2W8SkZYylvReQfgyRB1wcA1znLTqCNafFlfavnX5QaeL22nIlbE/s1600/1-lucy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9EjAMjIh9Uo4G2aG-vRQ3UW6SapjWapP5rjndTLOsS6ubbGgL_FUTDwm9Grx-D-I8qzviQPgPTPVnOYJOuoAB2FuSs2W8SkZYylvReQfgyRB1wcA1znLTqCNafFlfavnX5QaeL22nIlbE/s320/1-lucy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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It never fails. Every time I teach one of my color correction seminars, I’m bombarded with questions from people having problems with getting good coverage on resistant gray hair.<br />
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In this blog I’ll give you 6 Golden Secret Rules on how to handle gray coverage situations. But first, let’s look at some interesting facts about gray hair.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Haircolor Secret</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">There’s No Such Thing as Gray Hair!</span></b></div><br />
First of all, there’s no such thing as real gray hair. There is only pigmented hair (brown, red & blonde) and non-pigmented hair (white).<br />
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What we perceive as being “gray hair” is actually a combination of pigmented hair mixed with white hair.<br />
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The less white a person has, the grayer he/she tends to look. The more white a person has, the less gray he/she tends to look, but the more white his/her hair looks.<br />
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This phenomenon is best explained with something called the <b>“Gray Scale”. </b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_gd6tP7P2fVvrxaqxBaC9kzpJ0eTtNJt56Hi6FhPgNqd3gRXe9iB5Dw8CetIqQgZi9VrUZWFSx3aa-pwZQ4nzTk9ge3Bsf3ss_Cp9zs-wVj93MLI7ApULO88TJna6zs4wqPBYY4w_v5Vz/s1600/1+gray+scale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="90" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_gd6tP7P2fVvrxaqxBaC9kzpJ0eTtNJt56Hi6FhPgNqd3gRXe9iB5Dw8CetIqQgZi9VrUZWFSx3aa-pwZQ4nzTk9ge3Bsf3ss_Cp9zs-wVj93MLI7ApULO88TJna6zs4wqPBYY4w_v5Vz/s320/1+gray+scale.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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This is a tool used in Black & White photography & film, which allows our eyes to actually see different tones of color, which are only made up of the colors black and white intermixed into verging degrees.<br />
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Back in the days of Black & White TV, we all knew that Lucille Ball had bright red hair even though no one had a color television :-)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjePD2_5OYzRdp6Hm6enpMZ_LpV0bkJio2HnLEkX-DsqI24LY03hpmcjz6t1Q8l9yZPaPHY0LO-rF9Ls7lZ-lohnrLU_wut73RDMSiTLuPKZyeY7o7FOkkxDm9MGka3LKXwbUYv0HMwNPz-/s1600/1-lucy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjePD2_5OYzRdp6Hm6enpMZ_LpV0bkJio2HnLEkX-DsqI24LY03hpmcjz6t1Q8l9yZPaPHY0LO-rF9Ls7lZ-lohnrLU_wut73RDMSiTLuPKZyeY7o7FOkkxDm9MGka3LKXwbUYv0HMwNPz-/s320/1-lucy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><u>Secret Rule #1</u></span></b><br />
<br />
Never use a straight ash blonde tint on gray (non-pigmented) hair<br />
even if you want an ash blonde finished result.<br />
<br />
Gray (non-pigmented) hair is ash by nature; therefore, if you use a straight ash tint on it, you will get very drab results.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Haircolor Secret</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Ash Hair + Ash Tint = More Ash/Drab Color</span></b></div><br />
<br />
The hair could look smoky, gunmetal green, lavender, or steel gray.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><u>Secret Rule #2</u></span></b><br />
<br />
To get total gray coverage on resistant gray (non-pigmented) hair, you will need to use a level 8 blonde or darker. (If the hair is a fine texture, level 9 may work).<br />
<br />
Most manufacturers will tell you that, in order to get good gray coverage on resistant gray (non-pigmented) hair, you need to use a level 8 or darker. This is because in most cases, there is not enough dye load into levels 9 or 10 to obtain adequate gray coverage on resistant gray (non-pigmented) hair.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><u>Secret Rule #3</u></span></b><br />
<br />
Never put a straight cool red tint on gray (non-pigmented) hair.<br />
<br />
Gray (non-pigmented) hair lacks warmth (contributing color pigment/golden & red), so it will always show the full impact of the base in a tint. <br />
<br />
Cool red colors such as RV’s (red violet) and PR’s (purple reds) will look pink in the lighter shades and lavender or mauve in the darker shades. This is because the hair itself has no gold (warmth) to compensate for the tint which would balance out the color.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><u>The Secret Rule #4</u></span></b><br />
<br />
Gray (non-pigmented) hair will always turn yellow when lightened because of the pheomelanin (red-yellow) pigment which is still in the hair.<br />
<br />
The reason I am emphasizing this is to make sure you realize that, before lightening gray (non-pigmented) hair, be prepared to tone if necessary.<br />
<br />
Sometimes you'll get lucky and not have to use a toner at all, but in most cases, the yellow bleached-up gray (non-pigmented) hair will look raw or straw-like so just be ready to tone if needed.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><u>Secret Rule #5</u></span></b><br />
<br />
All gray (non-pigmented) hair is not created equal and, therefore,<br />
will not react the same to tinting, bleaching or toning.<br />
<br />
Coarse textured gray (non-pigmented) hair will always react slower and be more stubborn when tinting, bleaching or toning. Finer textured gray (non-pigmented) hair will always react quicker to tinting, bleaching and toning.<br />
<br />
Keep in mind that on the same head of hair, you will have a mixture of fine, medium and coarse gray (non-pigmented) hair. And in some cases, you may have to treat these different parts of the head with separate hair color formulas.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><u>Secret Rule #6</u></span></b><br />
<br />
In most cases, when covering 75% to 100% gray (non-pigmented) hair, you will have to mix the desired shade with either a gold base tint or a neutral/natural base tint in order to make up for the lack of warmth in the hair.<br />
<br />
Most tints are made to be put on pigmented hair, which will give a contributing color pigment of red or gold. Therefore, if working on 100% gray (non-pigmented) hair, you will have to mix in the missing tone (gold/red), or both, in order to make up for the lack of this warmth in the gray (non-pigmented) hair.<br />
<br />
If you would like to learn how to handle every gray Coverage problem you will ever encounter behind the chair, check out my book: Trade Secrets of Great Gray Coverage <a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/gray-hair.html">Click Here</a><br />
<br />
Have a Great Week,<br />
David<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCSXtCmfJilD_g3yNqJiAIfHhirQoUiMHcWEKBsox3Ge1WLVNNcDdyBT0M6actcnRYW2AQ44tfGoFgeTigngMD57r4wj_pLkygVp3sE8MHv6rFO_2U_4Y0sUnX0mMNAi3jaCnvHA7j9TzS/s1600/TipJar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCSXtCmfJilD_g3yNqJiAIfHhirQoUiMHcWEKBsox3Ge1WLVNNcDdyBT0M6actcnRYW2AQ44tfGoFgeTigngMD57r4wj_pLkygVp3sE8MHv6rFO_2U_4Y0sUnX0mMNAi3jaCnvHA7j9TzS/s1600/TipJar.jpg" /></a></div><div><div style="color: #dddddd; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 1em; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0.4em; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px;"><br />
</span></span></div>Let Your Tips Pay For Your Education. </div><div>E-Z Pay Plan just $27. Mo.</div><div><a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/e-z-pay-plan34.html">Click Here For Info</a></div>David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-41261478926003159792010-03-05T16:49:00.001-05:002010-03-05T16:54:10.841-05:00How to Create Successful Single Process Blondes<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzJvqx0ca9fZtIjyZv-9ZZqahBaoszjV13m56yc7qIFkUFPVlzF9Ore2RR5BAuG23FpB_u6VVItE5AupahvJpw6QwrobFbZXWiJaysMLfqhuYn_E3TE8MDUWVx5biy_DMe2Va9kn-sgwto/s1600-h/aaaaaaaa.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 258px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzJvqx0ca9fZtIjyZv-9ZZqahBaoszjV13m56yc7qIFkUFPVlzF9Ore2RR5BAuG23FpB_u6VVItE5AupahvJpw6QwrobFbZXWiJaysMLfqhuYn_E3TE8MDUWVx5biy_DMe2Va9kn-sgwto/s320/aaaaaaaa.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5445271394106535218" /></a>
How to Create Successful Single Process Blondes
What do you think of when you envision a beautiful single process blonde?
Do you envision a soft buttery blonde, that has a hint of golden sunshine to it, or an ice cool blonde
that has that Nordic – Swedish look?
These images conjure up thoughts of what I call:
Successful Single Process Blondes.
This is what we think will be achieved when we look at them on the color charts from the manufacturers, but the
reality is usually quite different.
Oranges, blondes, bold gold blondes, brassy blondes, greenish blondes and grayish blondes are
many times what we end up with. And what about the client that you have been
highlighting very heavily for some time now and one day says to you -
“You know I like my blonde highlights so much that I think I want to go solid blonde all over”.
And you figure that maybe she’s right. I mean, if a little blonde looks good, a lot of blonde
should look better. So, you mix your favorite shade of blonde and put it on. In
30 minutes, you have a yellow canary"Book Antiqua"""> sitting in your chair that looks as though she has seen a
ghost. To make matters worse, you suddenly discover the big black bushy
eyebrows that you never realized that she had when the hair was just
highlighted.
All of these situations stated above are just a few of the horrors that can happen when we
start to dive into the world of single process blonding.
To begin with, let’s define the term Single Process Blonding.
When I discuss single process blonde/blonding, I’m referring to one shade of blonde tint (not
lightener, not highlights, not lowlights) that is applied to the hair from re-growth
to ends.
Who are the Best and Worst Candidates for
Single Process Blonding
Like all the haircolor that we do, we’ll always have a best and worst candidate for any
particular shade and single process blonding is no different. As a matter of
fact, this is one category of color where choosing the right candidate is
absolutely essential in order to achieve success. And as you will soon see,
there are very few really good candidates from which to choose.
If you try to make a single process blonde out of anyone that is a natural level 1-6, you are
going to get very warm tones and produce an orange/brassy blonde.
This does not mean, however, that we cannot make them blondes in other ways, such as a double
process blonde or a slightly warm single process blonde with highlights woven
in to defuse the warm tones
That leaves us with natural levels 7, 8, 9, 10.
If you think about it, why would anyone with a natural level 9 or 10 want or need to color her
hair blonde? The only reason that I can think of is if she has gray in her
blonde hair and wants to re-color it blonde.yes""> This will actually be darkening, not lightening, the hair.
So that leaves us with only two natural levels to chose from, 7 & 8. Yes, that’s right,
believe it or not, out of all the people in the world the only clients, in my
opinion, that will become beautiful, successful single process blondes are the
ones that are already starting out with a light natural base color such as
natural levels 7 & 8.
Having said this, here is the exception to this rule - there are a few level 6 clients that you
may be able to make successful single process blondes.
These are clients that have very light color skin tones and light cool eye color such as light
blue, light gray or light green. The light skin tones and light eye color will
usually indicate that they have very light Pheomelanin (red-yellow) color pigmentation and, therefore,
usually will not pull too much gold as you lighten their hair. Go ahead and
give them a try.
That's it for today, have a Great Week!
DavidDavid Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-31739868389913066272010-03-05T16:46:00.001-05:002010-03-05T16:48:53.825-05:00What is a “Real Toner”?<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZJTzgd_k1R8wo7K9HvDBp_4JKvX8oLAUEb_jXwIAqxVjWYbtHNUqJ5b60sUpSBQi8xGcTFXUHq6dMgsSMhVNwwwsF8tdZtHMtsI9UlvdyQtBVXlD2ofAurriARaDZERlRfd2QJDTNd9v/s1600-h/aaaa.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 241px; height: 283px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZJTzgd_k1R8wo7K9HvDBp_4JKvX8oLAUEb_jXwIAqxVjWYbtHNUqJ5b60sUpSBQi8xGcTFXUHq6dMgsSMhVNwwwsF8tdZtHMtsI9UlvdyQtBVXlD2ofAurriARaDZERlRfd2QJDTNd9v/s320/aaaa.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5445270036406920098" /></a>
What is a “Real Toner”?
Hi, everyone, David here,
It seems that lately I have gotten many e-mails asking about "Real Toners".
Because in my book, Stunning Double Process Blondes, I speak a lot about toners and what to look for in a good bleach-out.
Unfortunately, this is something that most hairdressers have never heard about because double process blonding is not taught anywhere else except in my haircolor course.
So I would like to try to cut through all of the confusion about toners.
Today most haircolor manufacturers have quit making what I call "traditional toners".
Traditional toners are toners that are mixed with a developer (hydrogen peroxide) and were made using the third-generation of color from the color wheel known as tertiary colors.
Presently, most haircolor manufacturers quit making traditional toners because there is not a large demand for them so they are not a big moneymaker.
Most manufacturers these days will tell you to simply use their demi-colors as a toner.
Now, some demi colors work great as toners but others do not. That is why I always recommend doing a swatch test first on a small piece of hair to test your particular demi-color before you put it on all over the hair.
My preference, if I am doing a very light double process blonde, is to use one of the old-fashioned traditional toners.
Unfortunately, my manufacturer (Wella) has also quit making traditional toners in its more modern haircolor lines. However, they do still make traditional type toners in one of its old fashion lines called “Color Charm”.
If you have been doing haircolor as long as I have, I'm sure you will remember the old Color Charm tints and toners.
These days they are usually sold at discount beauty supply stores such as Sally's. That is where I go to buy these old-fashioned traditional toners.
One of our Clubhouse Members recently e-mailed me saying that she has never heard of traditional toners and asked if there is such a thing as a swatch chart for toners.
The answer that question is YES! There is a swatch chart for the Color Charm tints and it does include some of the toner shades.
If you would like to download this swatch chart, Click here and go to my website where I have created a Secrets Download Page for you. (Look on page 9 – to the right hand side).
The best way that I know to use these toners are as follows.
If you want to do a double process blonde but still leave a good bit of tone in the hair such as a medium blonde, you should bring your bleach out to the gold stage and select a Color Charm toner that is in the 30s
series.
If you would like to make a lighter double process, bring your bleach out to the yellow stage and use a toner in the 20s series.
And, finally, if your desire is to create a very light double process blonde, "almost white", bring your bleach out to pale yellow and use a toner in the 10’s (or teen’s) series.
My favorite Color Charm formula for a very, very light blonde almost white color is two shades in the teen’s series.
I can't remember offhand the exact numbers, but they are in the 10’s series and they are called "White Lady" and “Ivory Lady".
I mixed them together 50/50 with 20-volume peroxide to achieve a beautiful white effect on a pale yellow bleach-out.
I hope that this information is helpful to you and, if you have any comments or would like to share your favorite toner formulas, please do so here.
Have a great week,
DavidDavid Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-91023349452956715702010-03-05T16:32:00.007-05:002010-03-05T16:45:50.691-05:00The Level System Lies, the Color Wheel is B.S., and All Ash Tints Suck!...There, I said it.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUMjRUaWOJiHK2r3UIzMHERO-j7-6UDe4Sjqk0u5_-uHbP0xmtxHln9IymLM7zWC3YXRpUAH17Akco8DwFQjHA2JN8SEXkFnsbr2eswcb8oj0GNDu9mV0LxSxEx0uTWj0gSKND8l6R4nAf/s1600-h/Poat1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 310px; height: 209px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUMjRUaWOJiHK2r3UIzMHERO-j7-6UDe4Sjqk0u5_-uHbP0xmtxHln9IymLM7zWC3YXRpUAH17Akco8DwFQjHA2JN8SEXkFnsbr2eswcb8oj0GNDu9mV0LxSxEx0uTWj0gSKND8l6R4nAf/s320/Poat1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5445266969008574898" /></a>
The Level System Lies, the Color Wheel is B.S., and All Ash Tints Suck
There, I said it.
After 35 years of trying to make these things work, I finally quit beating my head against the shampoo sink.
Why do I say this - the Level System Lies, the Color Wheel is B.S. and All Ash Tints Suck?
Simple…..
Let me ask you these few questions:
Most haircolor manufacturers tell us that we can achieve up to five levels a lift with their products. This means that if I have a client who is a natural level 2 (dark brown), I should be able to use a level 7 (medium blonde) and achieve a beautiful single process blonde.
Can you do this? Of course not, she would be a screaming, “Orange head,”sitting in your chair.
And what about the Color Wheel?
We were all taught in beauty school that, if a client's hair looks green to simply go across the color wheel and we would see that we must put red into the hair to neutralize the green.
Have you ever tried this?
If you have, I'm sure you will agree that it does not neutralize the color. Instead of the client being lime green, she's now an olive green. So there goes the color wheel theory out the window.
And what about Ash Tints, aren’t we told by all the product manufacturers that the Ash Tints will subdue the unwanted warm tones?
Do you have any brunette clients who are constantly complaining about their hair looking red? Do you have any blonde clients who are constantly complaining about their hair looking brassy?
Listen guys, I’m not trying to put down the product manufacturing companies.
I mean, they do the best job they can and give us good products to work with.
I'm also not trying to put down beauty schools, although I definitely think that their teaching is antiquated.
However, I'm sick and tired of all of the haircolor myths that we have been told for years from both of these institutions.
I guess this is one reason why my home study course, Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert, has taken off like a rocket ship.
All because a few short years ago, I decided to sit down and write a haircolor program that would teach hairdressers the “REAL DEAL” of how haircolor “REALLY” works.
I have no hidden agenda, such as trying to sell you a line of haircolor or trying to push you through beauty school, even though you haven't a clue of how to do haircolor.
No, no, no, my only agenda is to try to help you to be the best colorist you can be.
Just to prove the point, I want you to take quick little tests.
STOP READING right now and open a new browser window, go to Google, and type in the term "Haircolor Education".
Do it now…I’ll wait for you to come back…dumm, dumm, di..dumm, dumm, (That’s me waiting.)
Now, at what position do you see my haircolor course Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert ? I guarantee you my program is either number one or number two.
(By the way, don't look at the top two or three terms that are highlighted in yellow because those are what's called “sponsored links” and they are paid advertisements to be in that position. I am talking about all the rest of the search results which are known as the organic or “real” search engine results.)
Now, isn't it amazing how my little ol’ haircolor program, Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert, typed out with my own two hands on my own little ol’ laptop has a higher Google ranking than all of the major companies who also offer haircolor education.
I’m talking about companies like Wella, L’Oreal, Goldwell, Jingles, Paul Mitchell, Aveda, as well as every other haircolor company and other individuals like me out there teaching haircolor.
It’s a matter of fact, according to Google, my haircolor program is searched more than over 3 million other websites that also sell haircolor education.
If you didn't open a new browser window and did the search like I asked you to, you can just look at the screenshot below to see what I'm talking about.
By the way, Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert’s number one ranking is the same search results in Yahoo, MSN, Bing, Dog Pile and every other major search engine out there as well.
Now, people in the know are constantly asking me how I get the number one spot in the Google search engine ranking (as I have done for the past two years since the launch of the Trade Secrets program).
I tell them it’s simple; the word is out that the teaching in this home study course is the only course in the world that teaches hairdressers “How Haircolor Really Works”.
You see there’s really only two ways to learn haircolor.
One is by trial and error (this could take 10 to 20 years).
The other is by learning from someone who has been there before you, has already made all the mistakes there are to make and is willing to share with you what they have learned…which is exactly what my haircolor course is deigned to do.
So anyway, as we begin another new year and people make all kinds of New Year resolutions such as lose weight or quit smoking…why don’t you make this the year that you learn how to do Amazing Haircolor?
I don’t mean just take a 1-hour haircolor class at you local beauty show…
I mean really study the craft of how haircolor really works and master this true “ART” form once and for all.
Remember the longer you wait, the longer it will be before you start to see results, so why not dig in right now at the start of this brand new year and get going?
I wish you massive success in all your haircolor endeavors, and it would be my pleasure to help you along your journey to haircolor mastery.
See you next week,
David
For more info on the Haircolor Trade Secrets course Click Here.David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-32118410802575033922009-03-15T08:09:00.020-04:002009-03-15T08:51:55.458-04:00How to Do a Bleach-Out on Previously Highlighted/Bleached Hair<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhETqXK3BclFxkxzm_qFn0DU5jZnYV4I5jkV-iuSFqeHPYmvW7UOENXthfghw4E6Ptk9gcucamRV2MAqLdQWiVPycb6j5sRv1x2_0F5Rsz_FHuOasrJCumSAp_ZAs2px_W8MMoLK-bkLOXV/s1600-h/Sue+1.png"> <img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 139px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhETqXK3BclFxkxzm_qFn0DU5jZnYV4I5jkV-iuSFqeHPYmvW7UOENXthfghw4E6Ptk9gcucamRV2MAqLdQWiVPycb6j5sRv1x2_0F5Rsz_FHuOasrJCumSAp_ZAs2px_W8MMoLK-bkLOXV/s200/Sue+1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313387507189224290" /> </a><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGS5FRmxrjBGfyqvgdqvvVuzjYeaa_CiRv1hvsoBVn4MANju6_P9bcvkTtmCC3uHHN33ELIlpyh9z_wP1gJhLGeeoMKLdKf5CyxtxDzi9V1DL6PWKWQf2jvst5Is0WR9c84wCAvpCjlkV-/s400/Sue+3.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313387665136130178" />
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Note: This procedure applies to clients that are heavily highlighted with lightener (Bleach). If a client is just highlighted with a tint the cautions in this artical are not necessary.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><span style="mso-spacerun:yes"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">When taking a client from heavy lightened highlights to a Double Process Blonde, you must be very careful not to over-lighten the already lightened hair or your client will get major breakage. The following 6 step proceeder is how I recommend handling this situation.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span style="Book Antiqua""></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">6 Steps to a Beautiful Double Process Blonde</span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1) Bleach-out the re-growth area (virgin hair) to your desired prelightened shade, as you would do a touch up situation (don’t tone yet).</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">2) Dry under a cool dryer.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">3) Go back with foil and weave out the dark hair and bleach it separately (this can be a pain, but do the best you can).</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
4) When the dark hair inside the foils becomes the desired pre-lightened shade, take the client to the shampoo bowl and remove the foils rinsing all the hair with water.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
5) Next, while at the shampoo sink and with the hair wet, run a mild bleach solution through the entire head just for a minute or two. This will freshen the old highlights and prepare them to better accept the toner.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
</span><span style="Book Antiqua""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">6) Shampoo out the lightener and use</span></span><span style="Book Antiqua""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><span style="Book Antiqua""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">an anti-oxidation treatment to neutralize any lightener residue that may be left in the hair before toning.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span style="Book Antiqua""></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:18.1pt 36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Dry Hair Before Toning.</span></span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left:36.85pt;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">At this point, the hair should be dried (use a cool dryer only) before the toner is applied. Check to see if the bleach-out is even.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">If it is not, go back and spot bleach the areas that need to be lighter.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP7hV2pF3wAjOWE0dzCQ0eh-wT4IxaAApB2pcuG2HxrfGY0EpDBWUZ69cHE84y9h5UvCArFa6wlih52-vsKOECZjY6zR2WoLy8rU2CGQmSndEBY_rVUS83fDbMwEZvj-NLH46BzUEOx3J/s1600-h/Wet+2.png"></a></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left:36.85pt;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP7hV2pF3wAjOWE0dzCQ0eh-wT4IxaAApB2pcuG2HxrfGY0EpDBWUZ69cHE84y9h5UvCArFa6wlih52-vsKOECZjY6zR2WoLy8rU2CGQmSndEBY_rVUS83fDbMwEZvj-NLH46BzUEOx3J/s1600-h/Wet+2.png"> </a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhLtVGytjzwTc26nl7FXMmnvGcvSOsmX59OGpZMy4HwlR53OYSPHIsqYa6tDD14uZ65eZh1SoMj-ea5_lNrJU5mqQ9DAWn0JlE1u6Nic1essUyO3VZeqTndfCK1orfbYCKXoVo_Yvx0_c/s1600-h/Wet+Bleachout+1.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhLtVGytjzwTc26nl7FXMmnvGcvSOsmX59OGpZMy4HwlR53OYSPHIsqYa6tDD14uZ65eZh1SoMj-ea5_lNrJU5mqQ9DAWn0JlE1u6Nic1essUyO3VZeqTndfCK1orfbYCKXoVo_Yvx0_c/s320/Wet+Bleachout+1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313390561119618306" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP7hV2pF3wAjOWE0dzCQ0eh-wT4IxaAApB2pcuG2HxrfGY0EpDBWUZ69cHE84y9h5UvCArFa6wlih52-vsKOECZjY6zR2WoLy8rU2CGQmSndEBY_rVUS83fDbMwEZvj-NLH46BzUEOx3J/s1600-h/Wet+2.png"> </a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP7hV2pF3wAjOWE0dzCQ0eh-wT4IxaAApB2pcuG2HxrfGY0EpDBWUZ69cHE84y9h5UvCArFa6wlih52-vsKOECZjY6zR2WoLy8rU2CGQmSndEBY_rVUS83fDbMwEZvj-NLH46BzUEOx3J/s1600-h/Wet+2.png"> </a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP7hV2pF3wAjOWE0dzCQ0eh-wT4IxaAApB2pcuG2HxrfGY0EpDBWUZ69cHE84y9h5UvCArFa6wlih52-vsKOECZjY6zR2WoLy8rU2CGQmSndEBY_rVUS83fDbMwEZvj-NLH46BzUEOx3J/s1600-h/Wet+2.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP7hV2pF3wAjOWE0dzCQ0eh-wT4IxaAApB2pcuG2HxrfGY0EpDBWUZ69cHE84y9h5UvCArFa6wlih52-vsKOECZjY6zR2WoLy8rU2CGQmSndEBY_rVUS83fDbMwEZvj-NLH46BzUEOx3J/s320/Wet+2.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313390568317595506" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left:36.85pt;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">For this Double Process Blonde I used:</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left:36.85pt;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Bleach: Clairol Born Blonde w/3 activators & 2o volume H2O2</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left:36.85pt;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Bleach-out on re-growth 40 Min.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left:36.85pt;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Toner: Wella Color Touch 3/4-10/73 & 1/4-9/73 </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left:36.85pt;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Toner Timing: On for 1 min. only </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left:36.85pt;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP7hV2pF3wAjOWE0dzCQ0eh-wT4IxaAApB2pcuG2HxrfGY0EpDBWUZ69cHE84y9h5UvCArFa6wlih52-vsKOECZjY6zR2WoLy8rU2CGQmSndEBY_rVUS83fDbMwEZvj-NLH46BzUEOx3J/s1600-h/Wet+2.png"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">IF</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP7hV2pF3wAjOWE0dzCQ0eh-wT4IxaAApB2pcuG2HxrfGY0EpDBWUZ69cHE84y9h5UvCArFa6wlih52-vsKOECZjY6zR2WoLy8rU2CGQmSndEBY_rVUS83fDbMwEZvj-NLH46BzUEOx3J/s1600-h/Wet+2.png"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> </span></span></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">THE BLEACH-OUT IS NOT ACCEPTABLE AT THIS</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">
</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">POINT, DO NOT PROCEED.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><o:p></o:p></span></span></b></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:36.85pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">GO BACK AND CORRECT THE BLEACH-OUT.</span></span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua""><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:10.2pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> <div style="border:solid windowtext .75pt;padding:1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt"> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:10.2pt;border:none;mso-border-alt:solid windowtext .75pt;padding:0in;mso-padding-alt:1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><b><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Haircolor Secret</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></u></b></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:10.2pt;border:none;mso-border-alt:solid windowtext .75pt;padding:0in;mso-padding-alt:1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt"><span style="Book Antiqua""><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">IN DOUBLE PROCESS BLONDING, YOUR FINISHED PRODUCT IS ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR BLEACH-OUT.</span></b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:10.2pt;border:none;mso-border-alt:solid windowtext .75pt;padding:0in;mso-padding-alt:1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">
</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:10.2pt;border:none;mso-border-alt:solid windowtext .75pt;padding:0in;mso-padding-alt:1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt"><!--StartFragment--> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="Book Antiqua"font-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">This lesson is an excerpt from my best selling book "Stunning Double Process Blondes" in the “Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert” Home Study Course. If you would like more</span><span style="color:#DDDDDD;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">information…</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/blondes-double-proccess.htmi"></a></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="Book Antiqua"font-family:";"><a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/blondes-double-proccess.htmi"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Click Here:</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;"><a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/blondes-double-proccess.htmi"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/blondes-double-proccess.htmi</span></a></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;tab-stops:10.2pt;border:none;mso-border-alt:solid windowtext .75pt;padding:0in;mso-padding-alt:1.0pt 4.0pt 1.0pt 4.0pt"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; "><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHitNcaF1uUy8U3-8sriFD8pqeOGGwjmALvglYxz3S9DUYikH9kEaTqkpyk58lw0izWQ7e7MpiyIPkU2FWGwg0dfgDvWDjJDSf2bmJVUJZ-ztxOnCbNHAB-nV1IkxCeNKjwkPY8PUsS93K/s1600-h/12--Double+pro+Blnd.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHitNcaF1uUy8U3-8sriFD8pqeOGGwjmALvglYxz3S9DUYikH9kEaTqkpyk58lw0izWQ7e7MpiyIPkU2FWGwg0dfgDvWDjJDSf2bmJVUJZ-ztxOnCbNHAB-nV1IkxCeNKjwkPY8PUsS93K/s200/12--Double+pro+Blnd.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313395460619946882" style="cursor: pointer; width: 154px; height: 200px; " /></a>
</span></span></p> </div> <!--EndFragment-->David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-53707386796437775532009-03-08T08:08:00.017-04:002009-03-08T09:07:16.625-04:00Formulation Secrets for Red Haircolor<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw1kLGNd_zGDfbJabteUkl5PsCvn97youl-CyUJHmB_EPHrggCtMyuiUBQfy8eUNv3SpAvFqz-MyFxelWDg2HD9Y0YiNT56dg_zknu5mYYBm2N5zUbCOmCCRfbTmDMo1SiDgItFl15M5Lr/s1600-h/10--Redhead.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 249px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw1kLGNd_zGDfbJabteUkl5PsCvn97youl-CyUJHmB_EPHrggCtMyuiUBQfy8eUNv3SpAvFqz-MyFxelWDg2HD9Y0YiNT56dg_zknu5mYYBm2N5zUbCOmCCRfbTmDMo1SiDgItFl15M5Lr/s320/10--Redhead.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310793699977708946" /></a>
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<!--StartFragment--> <div class="Section1"> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Formulating red hair color can be the most intimidating of all colors. Anyone with a first time client sitting in his/her chair for a single process touchup who is presently wearing a beautiful shade of red and says, </span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">“I love my color…just do my re-growth and match what I have”</span></i></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> knows what I’m talking about. If your not 100% sure about your haircolor formulation abilities, you will probably be sweating bullets at this point.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Look at the</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Exposed</span></i></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Contributing Color Pigment Guide</span></b></i></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">below</span></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">and follow with me as I point out a few things.</span></span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none">
</p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3iBmD07xRji4FrJABfmqqy8mXr_HnKwvua6lkpdnHFRSlAP_DZ3CvDqRYMgEoEVencosr-vmUMegSipiMRSThoLmrjEs4ZIWpFNLAjC-ME08KXM7fIk2RvGzaAAUewWQfvMC8_mao8jyT/s1600-h/Red+Region+Chart.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3iBmD07xRji4FrJABfmqqy8mXr_HnKwvua6lkpdnHFRSlAP_DZ3CvDqRYMgEoEVencosr-vmUMegSipiMRSThoLmrjEs4ZIWpFNLAjC-ME08KXM7fIk2RvGzaAAUewWQfvMC8_mao8jyT/s400/Red+Region+Chart.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310793110110186786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 303px; height: 400px; " /></a><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center;mso-pagination:none"> </p></div> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">You first need to establish what your client’s natural level is. If you are not sure, use the natural level swatches in your color chart book to help. Remember, a level is determined by </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">lightness to darkness minus the tone. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> Next, determine what shade of red your client would like to be</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">(level & tone).</span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> Do this by looking at your manufacturer’s swatch book. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> Once you have determined her natural color level, find it on the left side of the chart and then go to the right side of the chart to see what the ‘exposed contributing color pigment” will be for that level.</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> By doing this, you will be able to predict what color will result as you lighten the hair.</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">If his/her natural color level is 1 or 2, as you can see, about all that you are going to get is a red brown unless the hair is pre-lightened. Levels 3, 4, 5, 6 & 7 will give you good bases for many red haircolor options. I call this the </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">“Red Region”</span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">. Levels 8, 9, 10 don’t have any red or orange; so they will be very weak reds but will be fine for very light reds such as strawberry blonde, copper blonde and apricot.</span></span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> Typically, as long as you’re working on level 6 or darker, and assuming the client has no gray hair, you will probably be able to use the color you have chosen directly on the client per the manufacturer’s instructions.</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> Most manufacturers state, if you want to go 3 to 4 levels lighter than the client’s natural level, you must use 30 volume developer and 40 volume to go 5 levels lighter. Usually, if you are staying in the same level, lifting only 1 or 2 levels or going darker, 20 volume is sufficient.</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> Formulating for a client that has either Gray (non-pigmented) or light blonde hair becomes a little more challenging. These clients, in many cases, don’t have enough warmth in their hair to give the depth in color tonality that needed in order to achieve a good red color. What you need to do is mix the desired red shade with a brown base color (natural base or gold base) to make up for the lack of brown in the hair.</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I’ll be referring a lot to what I call </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">brown base colors</span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">. As a rule of thumb, if you want to create a </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">cool red </span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">(auburn, plum, burgundy, violet base reds), I recommend using a natural or neutral base color for your brown base color.</span></span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">If you want to create a </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">warm base color </span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">(red-golds, copper reds, strawberry blonde),</span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I recommend using a </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">gold base color</span></b></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">.</span></span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> Use the gold or natural base colors in the same level as the desired shade with which you will be working.</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> For example,</span></b></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">5rv</span></span><span style="Book Antiqua";font-family:";color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmTSz8pKi7HXuVVxGOqQqUNmxTw7QryPUHwotgJ5g1_VIIR_b8CyxCr0ueU1j-25qUcNDDAqKglMyLpGh8yCgs41OAs_SGWl3vVn9n8S8uRGau_lLqDxrCUi5d2-dRL69YOKIOz2oqxDYY/s1600-h/5rv.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmTSz8pKi7HXuVVxGOqQqUNmxTw7QryPUHwotgJ5g1_VIIR_b8CyxCr0ueU1j-25qUcNDDAqKglMyLpGh8yCgs41OAs_SGWl3vVn9n8S8uRGau_lLqDxrCUi5d2-dRL69YOKIOz2oqxDYY/s200/5rv.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310794691108126370" style="cursor: pointer; width: 81px; height: 53px; " />+</a></span></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">5n </span></span><span style="layout-grid-mode:line"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkkPSdcyedSCv5dI3ZAxuVwUGzFsE3IxTA_K0ABa5iDUQ8RmGpymYkuXk2acqtFJ1N17LrwPD5SSUn2jGMzqfXj0P26giQPzK6V7C2ck-0IiCLrA0Ihg83idfEg1GrBYMIuTmOASugvv9t/s1600-h/5n.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkkPSdcyedSCv5dI3ZAxuVwUGzFsE3IxTA_K0ABa5iDUQ8RmGpymYkuXk2acqtFJ1N17LrwPD5SSUn2jGMzqfXj0P26giQPzK6V7C2ck-0IiCLrA0Ihg83idfEg1GrBYMIuTmOASugvv9t/s200/5n.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310794696094023170" style="cursor: pointer; width: 76px; height: 54px; " /></a></span></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> ==</span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Desired Shade</span></i></b></span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">7ro</span><span style="mso-spacerun:yes"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span></span><span style="layout-grid-mode:line"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jHsSYvpYuTP5Q4Od82qxSqQJaxt7nvMrqecM36D2YLqBrwQBMB7PqUr8VbIBABK63IFZMtZic6T3rdJ-Pou5XgDO2RyX2G-bIXgvysHLVUtliSbivfWHFB4mFwxuJiTsjNDpK_HwINGr/s1600-h/7or.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jHsSYvpYuTP5Q4Od82qxSqQJaxt7nvMrqecM36D2YLqBrwQBMB7PqUr8VbIBABK63IFZMtZic6T3rdJ-Pou5XgDO2RyX2G-bIXgvysHLVUtliSbivfWHFB4mFwxuJiTsjNDpK_HwINGr/s200/7or.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310794697304790130" style="cursor: pointer; width: 68px; height: 72px; " /> +</a></span></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">7g </span></span><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRjN-G0GtKKXIjUzPKdQpLUmxB4176otgDmWtD4NwnvJhUuzcEXdI7xZm_UBBrYMLxSCgr7niMgP0H_qgtNWqRkLLFJCGYeU0UF8-sGjHacfl2CAzdM3WKWDM7KTpMxDGvWeYHRL9HIZu1/s1600-h/7g.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRjN-G0GtKKXIjUzPKdQpLUmxB4176otgDmWtD4NwnvJhUuzcEXdI7xZm_UBBrYMLxSCgr7niMgP0H_qgtNWqRkLLFJCGYeU0UF8-sGjHacfl2CAzdM3WKWDM7KTpMxDGvWeYHRL9HIZu1/s200/7g.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310795608433242690" style="cursor: pointer; width: 74px; height: 54px; " /></a> ==</span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Desired Shade</span></i></b></span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="Book Antiqua";layout-grid-mode:linefont-family:";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">This lesson is an excerpt from my best selling book "Amazing Redheads" in the “Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert” Home Study Course. If you would like more</span><span style="color:#DDDDDD;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">information…<a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/redheads.html">Click Here: http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/redheads.html</a></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p> <!--EndFragment--> <!--EndFragment-->David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-16317947909638293582009-03-01T23:16:00.016-05:002009-03-02T00:23:47.928-05:00Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Blonde<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4u5kOJVw3b-COkWThyyD5YIoiR9wYG6NJlTOSV64YaQaFYJz2mGsf0Z-QH3w5I0zdvrR2O7RjIQe-ztCIU6ZHBFfO8cmBBSWz894cn2TnYAZvKE2xfv16v_rcnJ96o8FpV0sHWuKxrjZS/s1600-h/8--Gray+Coverage.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 188px; height: 244px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4u5kOJVw3b-COkWThyyD5YIoiR9wYG6NJlTOSV64YaQaFYJz2mGsf0Z-QH3w5I0zdvrR2O7RjIQe-ztCIU6ZHBFfO8cmBBSWz894cn2TnYAZvKE2xfv16v_rcnJ96o8FpV0sHWuKxrjZS/s320/8--Gray+Coverage.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308441199203686706" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">GREAT GRAY COVERAGE</span>
At first thought, it probably seems like making gray (non-pigmented) hair blonde should be a very simple and straightforward process. It would seem that you just mix any blonde color you desire; simply apply it, re-growth to ends and you're done.
If you've tried this before, you may get lucky once in a while, but eventually you will have problems such as:
Gray (non-pigmented) hair….
• Is not actually covered
• Looks too drab
• Looks pink
• Looks brassy gold
• Has a greenish cast
• Has a bluish cast
• Looks orange
• etc.
Formulating for gray (non-pigmented) hair has a few secret ground rules which we have to abide by in order to be successful and create beautiful colors on gray (non-pigmented) hair.
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);font-size:130%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Secret Ground Rules</span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Secret Ground Rule #1</span>
Never use a straight ash blonde tint on gray (non-pigmented) hair even if you want an ash blonde finished result.
Gray (non-pigmented) hair is ash by nature; therefore, if you use a straight ash tint on it, you will get very drab results.
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Haircolor Secret</span>
<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Ash Hair + Ash Tint = More Ash/Drab Color</span>
</div>
The hair could look smoky, gunmetal green, lavender, or steel gray.
<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Secret Ground Rule #2</span>
To get total gray coverage on resistant gray (non-pigmented) hair, you will need to use a level 8 blonde or darker. (If the hair is a fine texture, level 9 may work).
Most manufacturers will tell you that, in order to get good gray coverage on resistant gray (non-pigmented) hair, you need to use a level 8 or darker. This is because in most cases, there is not enough dye load into levels 9 or 10 to obtain adequate gray coverage on resistant gray (non-pigmented) hair.
<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Secret Ground Rule #3
</span>
Never put a straight cool red tint on gray (non-pigmented) hair.
Gray (non-pigmented) hair lacks warmth (contributing color pigment/golden & red), so it will always show the full impact of the base in a tint.
Cool red colors such as RV’s (red violet) and PR’s (purple reds) will look pink in the lighter shades and lavender or mauve in the darker shades. This is because the hair itself has no gold (warmth) to compensate for the tint which would balance out the color.
<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">The Secret Ground Rule #4
</span>
Gray (non-pigmented) hair will always turn yellow when lightened because of the pheomelanin (red-yellow) pigment which is still in the hair.
I already stated this at the beginning of this book. The reason I am emphasizing it is to make sure you realize that, before lightening gray (non-pigmented) hair, be prepared to tone if necessary.
Sometimes you'll get lucky and not have to use a toner at all, but in most cases, the yellow bleached-up gray (non-pigmented) hair will look raw or straw-like so just be ready to tone if needed.
<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Secret Ground Rule #5
</span>
All gray (non-pigmented) hair is not created equal and, therefore, will not react the same to tinting, bleaching or toning.
Coarse textured gray (non-pigmented) hair will always react slower and be more stubborn when tinting, bleaching or toning. Finer textured gray (non-pigmented) hair will always react quicker to tinting, bleaching and toning.
Keep in mind that on the same head of hair, you will have a mixture of fine, medium and coarse gray (non-pigmented) hair. And in some cases, you may have to treat these different parts of the head with separate hair color formulas.
<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">
Secret Ground Rule #6
</span>
In most cases, when covering 75% to 100% gray (non-pigmented) hair, you will have to mix the desired shade with either a gold base tint or a neutral/natural base tint in order to make up for the lack of warmth in the hair.
Most tints are made to be put on pigmented hair, which will give a contributing color pigment of red or gold. Therefore, if working on 100% gray (non-pigmented) hair, you will have to mix in the missing tone (gold/red), or both, in order to make up for the lack of this warmth in the gray (non-pigmented) hair.
This lesson is an excerpt from my book "Great Great Coverage" in the haircolor trade secrets program. If you would like more information click here now:<a href="http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/gray-hair.html">http://www.haircolortradesecrets.com/gray-hair.html</a>David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-63537332888616197272008-12-28T08:47:00.001-05:002008-12-28T08:51:31.920-05:00Give Thanks for your “Hairdressing License”<!--StartFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal">Happy New Year!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I hope you had a wonderful Christmas / Hanukkah / Kwanzaa or whatever it is that you celebrate this time of year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Personally, I’m a Christian so I celebrate Christmas.</p><p class="MsoNormal">This month I want to talk to you about something that isn’t directly related to hair color but that definitely influences all of our lives as hairdressers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>That is to be sure to give thanks for your “Hairdressing License”.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Giving thanks for your hairdressing license may seem like a silly thing to you because it’s something that most of us just take for granted. However, to me, it represents a ticket to a new life.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold; ">Let me explain.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> I had an older brother who became a hairdresser at a very young age; this was my first introduction into the world of hairdressing. In high school I was a very average student and found traditional education to be a little boring.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So after my junior year, I quit traditional day school and finished high school at night, while I attended beauty school during the day.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That following June, I graduated from high school. The very next month, July 1973, I passed my State board examination obtaining my license to practice hairdressing in the state of Florida at 17 years of age.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Shortly thereafter, I had the good fortune of attending the International Beauty Show in New York City and had a front row seat to hear Vidal Sassoon deliver the keynote speech to a very large audience.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">During his speech, Mr. Sassoon told about growing up in extreme poverty in the Jewish ghetto of London’s Lower East Side. He spoke about how his mother called the local hairdressing salon to see if they needed help with cleaning so that her son, Vidal, might be able to get a job and earn money to help feed the family. As we all know now, he not only got that job, but also went on to become our industry’s most famous icon.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The speech that he gave that day resonated with me because I too came from a very low-income family and lived in a not very desirable part of town.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I always knew that if I ever wanted anything in my life (a beautiful home, travel, prestige), I would have to earn it myself. Please don’t get me wrong, my family had a lot of love to give, but we just didn’t have any money.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Therefore, I saw my hairdressing license as my ticket to a whole new world.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> A while back, I started a new practice as I drive to work each morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>After I drop our girls at school, I turn off the radio in the car and for the next 10 or 15 minutes I give thanks aloud for all that is wonderful in my life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I give thanks for gifts like my loving wife who I have known since we were teenagers; my beautiful healthy daughters; our lovely home; automobiles and our dog and cat who bring me so much joy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span><b>But one of the main things for which I also give thanks each day is my “Hairdressing License”.</b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b> <o:p></o:p></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">During this time of economic uncertainty, I would like all of you to realize the incredible opportunities that lay before you with that simple piece of paper - your hairdressing license.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As we watch our customers, friends and family lose jobs, homes and, in some cases, their life savings, you can rest assure that with your hairdressing license you will always have work and prosperity.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> I remember when I was a beauty school student, one of my beauty school instructors was a very old gentleman we called “Pro”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>No one ever knew Pro’s real name, but it didn’t matter, he was a wonderful old man with a wealth of experience and amazing stories.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Pro once told me a story about when he was a young hairdresser during the Depression and had his own salon. He said that, even during that time when businesses were closing all around him, he never closed the doors to his hairdressing salon. During the worst times of the Depression, he said that he did have to go from a five day to a three day work week because there wasn’t enough work to fill the full five days.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Nevertheless, he was still able to keep the doors open and make an income for his family his and staff.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>You see, what most people don’t realize is that with your “Hairdressing License” you have the ability to do many, many things.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold; ">For example…..</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">You can work as a hairdresser in a salon or own your own salon.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">You can do hair for film, theater, TV commercials, fashion shows, fashion magazines and hair shows.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">You can do hair in hospitals, the military, nursing homes, prisons and funeral parlors.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">As an employee of a hair product manufacturing company, you can work as a field trainer, sales representative, artistic director, guest artist or evaluator of hair products in their test salon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Maybe someday, you can become the president of your own hair product manufacturing company like Paul Mitchell, Vidal Sassoon or so many others.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">You can become a beauty school instructor or owner, a consultant to a hair product manufacturing company, educator at an advanced hairdressing academy, creative director for a large salon chain, owner of a large salon chain, author of your own books, videos and educational programs.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">You can do hair on a cruise ship, in a vacation resort, in shopping malls, in department stores, in underground boutiques, at Disney World and at the “American Girl” doll stores.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">You can do hair in the city, the suburbs, the countryside, the United States, any other country in the world in which you choose to live, and, basically, anywhere that people have hair. (I guess this may leave out Mars).</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> Personally, I have had the extreme pleasure of doing hair in many of the above scenarios (although, never in prison <span style="font-family:Wingdings;mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings"><span style="mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings">J</span></span>).</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>The reason I felt the need to share all this with you is because I’m sick and tired of hearing all the negative talk about the economy.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>Yes, I know that we are going through an economic recession. I am not living in denial about what is happening in our country and around the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>However, I think it’s time we all get our heads back on straight and start thinking and working towards a better economy and a better life.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I would like to encourage all of you to become aware of the many opportunities that lie before you as hairdressers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Stop dwelling on the “news of the day” and start focusing on a plan of professional growth in the coming new year.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">You see, I’m a firm believer in “What You Think About, You Bring About”.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Focus your mind on the gifts that you have in your life, give thanks each and every day for the many blessings that you have and encourage others around you to do the same.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> We work in an amazing industry. You have made a great choice in becoming a hairdresser. Give thanks each and every day for the talent that God has given you, help others that are in need, encourage others to go to beauty school, and be proud of what you do.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> In closing, I would like to wish each and every one of you a wonderful, happy and prosperous new year and remind you to give thanks for your “Hairdressing License”.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> David</p> <!--EndFragment-->David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-56621297450450945012008-12-11T20:04:00.003-05:002008-12-11T20:23:46.613-05:00Consider a Consultation Fee<!--StartFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal">The question that always comes up when we talk about consultations in seminars is: </p> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center">Should we charge a fee for our client consultation?</p><p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><img src="webkit-fake-url://3574E98B-004E-497B-9C83-C6C8627043B6/image.tiff" />
</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> Here are a couple examples of what hairdressers do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Some hairdressers charge a nominal fee for the client consultation. If the client books an appointment, this fee will be deducted from the price of his/her first visit.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">However, should the client decide not to book an appointment, the hairdresser will feel as if<span style="mso-spacerun:yes"> </span>he/she did not waste his/her time by getting paid for the consultation.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Other hairdressers, such as myself, do not charge a fee for a client consultation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>My feeling is that, if a client does not like or agree with what I have to say about his/her hair, then I really don't want her/him to become a client of mine anyway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>So, I don't want him/her to feel as if he/she needs to make an appointment with me just because he/she already has made an investment into his/her first service.</p> <!--EndFragment-->David Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8017733709936972141.post-30832799228074971172008-09-30T15:35:00.000-04:002008-10-01T06:13:34.109-04:00Salon Lighting for HaircoloringFor haircolor purposes, the consultation and work environment should be very well lit.
Lighting in this area is very important. I suggest a mixture of lighting effects. What I mean by this is; if possible, try to have equal amounts of incandescent lighting, florescent lighting and natural lighting coming in from the windows or skylight.
If you have all of one type of lighting in the salon, the haircolor can look very different in the client’s home or in different lighting situations.
For example, florescent lights are blue; therefore, if the lighting is all florescent, it can make a blonde look green. (Blonde hair is yellow and blue lighting can create a green cast on the hair). So, a lot of blondes will look green under purely florescent lighting.
Florescent lighting can also make a redhead look brown, because of the cool nature of this type of lighting. It will bring out the cool color in the hair, which is ash and it will suppress the warm colors in the hair (golden and red). This will make redheads look more brown and less red.
Incandescent lighting is very warm. This can make a blonde look brassy or red.
<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNHb6-Ti4bOj2DVo61j07LsgKcA-1ZydlG94qxu7xJc8kn8eah1n34Or9OYu6NJMH3UHql3xR-lvbKehQiGmKQTB0jR-sG-DLnDqBZ3v0GofbLIxyinRp5HYj2BghqISzUzTv-4M4ADWHh/s1600-h/Blonde+Under+Cool+%26+Warm+lighting.png"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNHb6-Ti4bOj2DVo61j07LsgKcA-1ZydlG94qxu7xJc8kn8eah1n34Or9OYu6NJMH3UHql3xR-lvbKehQiGmKQTB0jR-sG-DLnDqBZ3v0GofbLIxyinRp5HYj2BghqISzUzTv-4M4ADWHh/s320/Blonde+Under+Cool+%26+Warm+lighting.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252123970940905090" border="0" /></a>
And 100% natural lighting is not great either because it will give off too much warmth and produce a false sense of red also if you rely solely on 100% natural lighting, you would be limited to doing haircolor only during daylight hours ☺
Since there is no perfect lighting, I suggest a mixture of all three. I find that with a blend of all three types of lighting, you get much more realistic looking haircolor and the client is less likely to call after she gets home to tell you that in her bathroom, her haircolor doesn’t look anything like it did in the salon.
In our salon we use florescent lighting as general ambient lighting, and we have an incandescent halogen spotlight over each chair. We are also fortunate enough to have plenty of large windows with an abundance of natural indirect lighting streaming through most of the day.
I welcome your comments and suggestions.
DavidDavid Velascohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18248330815940657625noreply@blogger.com0